Wednesday, April 24, 2013
Tuesday, April 23, 2013
Men's Blazers
- Pierre Cardin
The word blazer is one of the most incorrectly applied terms in men’s fashion. It is typically used as a general reference to describe almost any suit-type jacket, but a man's “blazer” has a more specific meaning. Both a blazer and a sport coat are casual jackets that are worn on their own rather than as a part of a complete suit. Although used interchangeably, the difference between the two has more to do with their fabrication and styling. A sport coat is traditionally made with an earthy fabric like tweed or houndstooth with three buttons, flap pockets and sometimes an extra ticket pocket on one side. As the name suggests, a sport coat was once meant to assist in the untimely demise of cute, harmless animals like deer or rabbit in the English countryside. Men's blazers, on the other hand, are made of a sturdier fabric than a suit, yet smoother fabric than a sport jacket. It is usually thought of as single-breasted, but it can also come in a double-breasted ahoy matey version. Blazers also have patch pockets as opposed to flaps, and in the single-breasted variety, it comes with two metallic buttons for closure.
The polished buttons combined with a badge sewn onto the chest pocket reflect the naval birthplace of the first blazers. Although debate surrounds the exact history of the garment, one convenient tale points to the HMS Blazer and the crew’s smart uniform that included a short jacket to impress the queen in 1837. The confusion over the linguistic origin of “blazer” is fitting since it’s increasingly difficult to accurately apply it in an ever-growing sea of men’s jackets.
The classic navy blazer with gold buttons is certainly a look -- uniformish and country-clubby with a hint of pretentiousness. But a blazer doesn’t have to land you on a golf course in WASPville. Looking for men’s blazers without the traditional metallic accoutrements is a start. Finding the right blazer, however, has more to do with fit than anything else. The original blazers were meant to be roomier than their stuck-up suited counterparts, but that shouldn’t translate into wearing a shapeless sack. The last thing you want is your grandfather’s blazer that is two sizes too big and looks like it was made from airplane seat upholstery. Go for men’s blazers that are deconstructed sans 1980s shoulder pads so that the jacket follows the natural lines of the shoulder. It should also hug the body for a well-tailored appearance. Pair it with contrasting pants like gray trousers or denim to avoid the occasional salute or invitation to an incredibly lame cocktail party.
Read more: http://www.askmen.com/fashion/keywords/mens-blazers.html#ixzz2RLxdRvDe
Sunday, April 21, 2013
Men's Dress Shoes: Styles and Colors
Bluchers (Derbies) are more appropriate for wear with sports jackets (odd jackets). A gentleman with a high instep might find the open lacing of the Blucher to be more comfortable.
Within either style, more brogue (small holes through the leather) and additional layers of leather (like a wingtip) make the shoe less formal. This brings some contoversy to the popular use (or misuse) of wingtips with suits in the American business world.
Patent leather is reserved for dinner jackets (tuxedos).
As a general rule, men should follow these color combinations when deciding what shoes to wear with what pants. There are many other colors, but the tabe below is a simple guideline.
SHOES & PANTS COLOR GUIDE
Pant/Suit Color -->> Shoe
Color
Black------------>>> black
Gray------------->>> black, brown, oxblood
Navy------------>>> black, brown, oxblood
Brown----------->>> brown
All other factors being equal, black is considered more formal than brown.
OTHER RELATED ITEMS
The belt should be the same color as the shoes.
The socks should match the color of the pants.
Black------------>>> black
Gray------------->>> black, brown, oxblood
Navy------------>>> black, brown, oxblood
Brown----------->>> brown
All other factors being equal, black is considered more formal than brown.
OTHER RELATED ITEMS
The belt should be the same color as the shoes.
The socks should match the color of the pants.
How to Buy a Suit: What GQ Won’t Tell You
To read what average men’s magazines say about it, you’d think buying a suit is like purchasing a car, warranting copious research, multiple store visits, the accompaniment of an experienced friend. And it can be like that — if you want to spend thousands of dollars and look like a GQ photo shoot. But for most guys, it’s a much simpler proposition.
That said, there are a few essential pieces of know-how every first-time suit-buyer should have. To break it down for us, we spoke to David Alperin, a Brooklyn-based designer and owner of specialty men’s retailer Goose Barnacle, winner of the Best Menswear Award in New York Magazine’s 2011 Best of New York issue.
1. Pick Your Price
“I tell young people not to go for the cheapest suit,” says Alperin. “It’s not going to last, and in the long run you’ll get more out of something a little higher quality.” Alperin advises shopping at Club Monaco, J. Crew or Banana Republic, where you can find decent off-the-rack suits for $300 to $400 that won’t require too much tailoring.
“I tell young people not to go for the cheapest suit,” says Alperin. “It’s not going to last, and in the long run you’ll get more out of something a little higher quality.” Alperin advises shopping at Club Monaco, J. Crew or Banana Republic, where you can find decent off-the-rack suits for $300 to $400 that won’t require too much tailoring.
2. Pick Your Color
“Everyone’s first suit should be a solid navy blue.” And after navy, Alperin suggests, gray. And then navy pinstripe and then gray pinstripe … andthen you can start to experiment. Why all the navy and gray? Because they go with everything. And why navy first? Because it’s perceived to be the most professional. We don’t know why — some things just are.
“Everyone’s first suit should be a solid navy blue.” And after navy, Alperin suggests, gray. And then navy pinstripe and then gray pinstripe … andthen you can start to experiment. Why all the navy and gray? Because they go with everything. And why navy first? Because it’s perceived to be the most professional. We don’t know why — some things just are.
3. Pick Your Style
If you’re young, says Alperin, no pleats. “Pleats were designed for a heavier-set person, and they make you look a little frumpy.” Flat-front pants give a slimmer, cleaner look — and who doesn’t want that? Cuffs are a personal decision, he adds, but “the rule of thumb is: if no pleats, no cuffs.”
If you’re young, says Alperin, no pleats. “Pleats were designed for a heavier-set person, and they make you look a little frumpy.” Flat-front pants give a slimmer, cleaner look — and who doesn’t want that? Cuffs are a personal decision, he adds, but “the rule of thumb is: if no pleats, no cuffs.”
As for jackets, either two-button or three-button is fine, but Alperin suggests sticking with the two-button option for your first suit — mainly because there are more of them out there. “In terms of finding suits at everyday stores that are mid- to good quality, usually it’s going to have two buttons.”
4. Pick Your Weight
As with color, until you have a closet full of suits and can pick and choose at your whim, you want something that’s going to be wearable in as many situations — and seasons — as possible. That, according to Alperin, would be a mid-weight 100-percent wool or wool blend.
As with color, until you have a closet full of suits and can pick and choose at your whim, you want something that’s going to be wearable in as many situations — and seasons — as possible. That, according to Alperin, would be a mid-weight 100-percent wool or wool blend.
5. Find Your Fit
“The shoulder and jacket length should be as close to perfect as possible,” says Alperin. “Anything else can be fixed.” The shoulders should end where your shoulders end; if they’re hanging off the end, even a smidge, put the suit back on the rack and find another.
“The shoulder and jacket length should be as close to perfect as possible,” says Alperin. “Anything else can be fixed.” The shoulders should end where your shoulders end; if they’re hanging off the end, even a smidge, put the suit back on the rack and find another.
Next, check the length. “You should be able to cup your hand underneath the bottom of the jacket.” If you brought dad along, and he’s telling you to go to the tips of your fingers, ignore him. That was the rule in his day; the new rule, according to Alperin, is a more modern look. “It makes everyone look taller if your jacket is a little shorter.”
Now you can start to relax, because the tailor will handle the rest. If your pants are flat front, make sure they fit in the waist (that’s your waist, not your hips) and they’ll have a nice straight fit down to the break on your shoe. Have the tailor hem your pants so they bend right as they hit the shoe and don’t bunch up. The sleeves should be tailored so that your shirt cuffs show a quarter of an inch. If you bought the right shoulders and jacket length, says Alperin, that’s all the tailoring you’ll need to do.
6. Complete the Outfit
“A mistake a lot of men make is purchasing a suit without the rest of the outfit,” says Alperin. “Without the tie, the socks, the shoes, it’s nothing.” You’ll need a minimum of two shirts: one white, one light blue. If you find a white shirt you like, Alperin suggests buying a few of them. “Your suit will outlive all of your shirts.”
“A mistake a lot of men make is purchasing a suit without the rest of the outfit,” says Alperin. “Without the tie, the socks, the shoes, it’s nothing.” You’ll need a minimum of two shirts: one white, one light blue. If you find a white shirt you like, Alperin suggests buying a few of them. “Your suit will outlive all of your shirts.”
There’s only one rule for socks: they must be darker than your suit. If your suit is a very dark navy, you can even wear black socks. Ties, of course, can run the gamut, but if you’re not ready to experiment, just go solid. “A solid burgundy tie, a dark green tie, navy, gray … they all look good with a navy suit on either a white or light blue shirt.”
Finally, says Alperin, invest in a good pair of black shoes — a typical men’s dress shoe like a Cole Haan lace-up — and a black belt to match. Most important of all: Keep your shoes polished. “It makes the whole outfit, which a lot of men don’t realize.” 
Laura Silverman is the managing editor of Men’s Life Today
The Difference Between a Blazer, Sport Coat, and Suit Jacket
The difference between a blazer, sport coat, and suit jacket
By Nick Sullivan
In the U.S., blazer has come to mean anything that has sleeves and lapels and is worn with unmatched pants, but there are key differences between the three items you mention. In Europe and the tonier parts of the States — especially any place where messing about in boats is a big part of summer — a blazer [above, left] usually means a patch-pocket, navy-blue jacket with gold or (occasionally) silver buttons.
The landlubberly sport coat [above, center], meanwhile, originally derived from the tweedy, robust coats worn while assisting in the untimely end of feathered or furry creatures. It had pockets with flaps, often an extra flapped ticket pocket, and was of softer construction than a suit jacket. As a modern fashion item, it should still retain the somewhat rustic, earthy look of its forebear (even when made in cashmere).
Finally, a suit jacket [above, right] will always be made of the finer stuff, i.e., worsted wool, and smooth to the touch. Still, all that said, it's rarely that cut — and — dried. Life's too short.
Read more: Difference Between Blazer, Sport Coat and Suit Jacket - Esquire http://www.esquire.com/style/tips/blazer-vs-coat-vs-jacket-0709#ixzz2R88i1Byj
By Nick Sullivan
In the U.S., blazer has come to mean anything that has sleeves and lapels and is worn with unmatched pants, but there are key differences between the three items you mention. In Europe and the tonier parts of the States — especially any place where messing about in boats is a big part of summer — a blazer [above, left] usually means a patch-pocket, navy-blue jacket with gold or (occasionally) silver buttons.
The landlubberly sport coat [above, center], meanwhile, originally derived from the tweedy, robust coats worn while assisting in the untimely end of feathered or furry creatures. It had pockets with flaps, often an extra flapped ticket pocket, and was of softer construction than a suit jacket. As a modern fashion item, it should still retain the somewhat rustic, earthy look of its forebear (even when made in cashmere).
Finally, a suit jacket [above, right] will always be made of the finer stuff, i.e., worsted wool, and smooth to the touch. Still, all that said, it's rarely that cut — and — dried. Life's too short.
Read more: Difference Between Blazer, Sport Coat and Suit Jacket - Esquire http://www.esquire.com/style/tips/blazer-vs-coat-vs-jacket-0709#ixzz2R88i1Byj
Art of Manliness Suit School: Part III – A Primer on Suit Buttons
Art of Manliness Suit School: Part III – A Primer on Suit Buttons
by A MANLY GUEST CONTRIBUTOR on APRIL 2, 2010
Editor’s note: The AoM Community’s resident style hobbyist, Leo Mulvihill, posted a series of posts on the Community blog to help men understand more about buying, wearing, and looking your best in a suit. We’ll be publishing his entries here every other week. Thanks for sharing your sartorial knowledge, Leo!
It’s time for another session of the Art of Manliness Suit School.
Today’s topic is quick, easy, and inoffensive: suit buttons.
It might at first seem simple – there are buttons. There are holes. The buttons go in the holes. Done.
Like most things in life, though, there’s a little bit more to it than meets the eye.
A Quick History Lesson and a Fat King
Historically, in the early years of the suit as everyday menswear, it appears there were no formal buttoning rules. Look to trade magazines and illustrations from the earlier part of the 20thcentury, and one sees jackets with between one and five buttons, each buttoned in a manner that suited the personality of the wearer or the cut of the garment.
But much of this changed with a king who was too fat to button his jacket. Or at least, that’s what legend says.
According to the lore of menswear, in the early 1900s King Edward VII started the trend of leaving the bottom button of a suit undone.
Apparently, he grew so rotund that he was unable to fasten the bottom button of his waistcoat and jacket. To not offend the king, those associated with him started doing the same. The custom then gradually spread the world round (as England was still largely an imperial power with great influence across the globe).
Button That Suit!
Today’s suits are constructed in a manner where to ensure proper fit and drape of the jacket, one must generally leave the bottom button open. Whether this was started because of King Edward, or simply because of evolving fashion, it remains the rule today.
Remember: A suit should always remain buttoned until one sits, when it usually becomes necessary to unfasten the jacket. Once one stands again, the jacket should be refastened.
But as any gentleman knows, there are exceptions to every rule.
Suiting is no different.
Here’s a cheat sheet broken down by button styles.
Single Breasted Suits
One Button Suits
One button suits are the easiest to remember. The button should always be buttoned when standing and unfastened when one sits down. No extra buttons to fiddle with or worry about. Here’s an example of a one-button suit. This particular suit has peak lapels as well, in the classic tuxedo style.
Two Button Suits
Two button suits are also simple. The top button should remain buttoned, while the bottom button is left undone. If you button both and look in a mirror, you’ll immediately notice that something looks strange. The bottom button also significantly restricts your movement.
Here’s an excellent example of a two button coat with a nice natural lapel roll that comes from a canvassed lining:
Three Button Suits
With three buttons, you have options. You can either button the top two and leave the bottom unfastened, or simply button the center button. On suits with a lapel that is flat, it generally looks better to button the top two. If the lapel has a soft roll to it that extends past the first button, then it’s advisable to button only the center button.
Above is a three-roll-two lapel. You can see a button hole for the top button, but the button itself is hidden from view by the lapel. This jacket should only be buttoned in the center, as the cut and roll of the lapel essentially precludes the button from functioning properly without making a mess of the fabric at the front of the jacket. This is actually my preferred style for jackets. The soft roll of the lapel combined with the symmetrical top and bottom button holes exudes a classical elegance that normal three-button jackets cannot match. Moreover, this is a style that works best with full-canvassed or half-canvassed jackets, which is why I advocate for them so zealously!
Nowadays, one doesn’t see as many rolled lapels. So unless your suit has a rolled lapel, it’s better to leave the top two buttons fastened. But keep your eye out for three-roll-two jackets and pick one up if you can. You’ll not regret it.
Four or More Button Suits
I do not advise that one ever wear more than three buttons on a single-breasted jacket. While they used to be common, nowadays they are more often seen on celebrities and those who want to make a brazen fashion statement. But they are generally neither rakish nor stylish, and you run the risk of being thought a fool if you wear them in a business environment. But if you feel inclined to pick one up regardless, just leave the bottom button undone.
Double-Breasted Suits
Double-breasted suits are pretty easy. Generally, fasten every button except the bottom (but even this is optional; Prince Charles routinely fastens them all for example).
Then, leave the suit buttoned until you take the jacket off – whether you’re sitting or standing. The military style behind the double-breasted suit requires that it remain fastened, otherwise the extra fabric at the front of the coat looks sloppy.
Above you can see Cary Grant in a suave-looking cream 6×2 double breasted – heading somewhere tropical, no doubt!
Its button configuration is known as a 6×2 because it has 6 buttons, only two of which can fasten. It is my opinion that this style of double-breasted jacket is most flattering for the greatest number of men. If you notice, the bottom-most button is undone. This improves suit drape and give a nice masculine figure to the jacket.
Other double-breasted jacket styles you might see include:
6 x 1 – Popularized in the late 80s and early 90s. This unfortunate style, worn by Patrick Bateman in American Psycho, now looks terribly dated and does not flatter many men. Please stay away.
4 x 1 and 4 x 2 – Often seen on the Duke of Windsor, this style of jacket has 4 buttons, of which either two or one fasten. The 4×1 was also quite popular in the 80s, but does not offend my sensibilities as much as the 6×1 . But be careful if you already have a belly, as the 4×1 has a tendency to magnify any weight around the midsection. The 4×2 is more versatile, as one may fasten either the top, bottom, or both buttons. The 4×2 appears far less often in ready-to-wear clothing than the 6×2 or 4×1.
2 x 1 – Just say no, unless it’s a smoking jacket or shawl-lapelled tuxedo. This is an 80s revival look that should stay dead.
So whether you prefer one, two, three, or more buttons, you’re now armed with the proper knowledge to look your best in all situations!
Enjoy for now, fellow gentlemen. More Suit School to follow! Please message me on the Art of Manliness Community if you have specific questions or ideas for future Suit School topics!
by A MANLY GUEST CONTRIBUTOR on APRIL 2, 2010
Editor’s note: The AoM Community’s resident style hobbyist, Leo Mulvihill, posted a series of posts on the Community blog to help men understand more about buying, wearing, and looking your best in a suit. We’ll be publishing his entries here every other week. Thanks for sharing your sartorial knowledge, Leo!
It’s time for another session of the Art of Manliness Suit School.
Today’s topic is quick, easy, and inoffensive: suit buttons.
It might at first seem simple – there are buttons. There are holes. The buttons go in the holes. Done.
Like most things in life, though, there’s a little bit more to it than meets the eye.
A Quick History Lesson and a Fat King
Historically, in the early years of the suit as everyday menswear, it appears there were no formal buttoning rules. Look to trade magazines and illustrations from the earlier part of the 20thcentury, and one sees jackets with between one and five buttons, each buttoned in a manner that suited the personality of the wearer or the cut of the garment.
But much of this changed with a king who was too fat to button his jacket. Or at least, that’s what legend says.
According to the lore of menswear, in the early 1900s King Edward VII started the trend of leaving the bottom button of a suit undone.
Apparently, he grew so rotund that he was unable to fasten the bottom button of his waistcoat and jacket. To not offend the king, those associated with him started doing the same. The custom then gradually spread the world round (as England was still largely an imperial power with great influence across the globe).
Button That Suit!
Today’s suits are constructed in a manner where to ensure proper fit and drape of the jacket, one must generally leave the bottom button open. Whether this was started because of King Edward, or simply because of evolving fashion, it remains the rule today.
Remember: A suit should always remain buttoned until one sits, when it usually becomes necessary to unfasten the jacket. Once one stands again, the jacket should be refastened.
But as any gentleman knows, there are exceptions to every rule.
Suiting is no different.
Here’s a cheat sheet broken down by button styles.
Single Breasted Suits
One Button Suits
One button suits are the easiest to remember. The button should always be buttoned when standing and unfastened when one sits down. No extra buttons to fiddle with or worry about. Here’s an example of a one-button suit. This particular suit has peak lapels as well, in the classic tuxedo style.
Two Button Suits
Two button suits are also simple. The top button should remain buttoned, while the bottom button is left undone. If you button both and look in a mirror, you’ll immediately notice that something looks strange. The bottom button also significantly restricts your movement.
Here’s an excellent example of a two button coat with a nice natural lapel roll that comes from a canvassed lining:
Three Button Suits
With three buttons, you have options. You can either button the top two and leave the bottom unfastened, or simply button the center button. On suits with a lapel that is flat, it generally looks better to button the top two. If the lapel has a soft roll to it that extends past the first button, then it’s advisable to button only the center button.
Above is a three-roll-two lapel. You can see a button hole for the top button, but the button itself is hidden from view by the lapel. This jacket should only be buttoned in the center, as the cut and roll of the lapel essentially precludes the button from functioning properly without making a mess of the fabric at the front of the jacket. This is actually my preferred style for jackets. The soft roll of the lapel combined with the symmetrical top and bottom button holes exudes a classical elegance that normal three-button jackets cannot match. Moreover, this is a style that works best with full-canvassed or half-canvassed jackets, which is why I advocate for them so zealously!
Nowadays, one doesn’t see as many rolled lapels. So unless your suit has a rolled lapel, it’s better to leave the top two buttons fastened. But keep your eye out for three-roll-two jackets and pick one up if you can. You’ll not regret it.
Four or More Button Suits
I do not advise that one ever wear more than three buttons on a single-breasted jacket. While they used to be common, nowadays they are more often seen on celebrities and those who want to make a brazen fashion statement. But they are generally neither rakish nor stylish, and you run the risk of being thought a fool if you wear them in a business environment. But if you feel inclined to pick one up regardless, just leave the bottom button undone.
Double-Breasted Suits
Double-breasted suits are pretty easy. Generally, fasten every button except the bottom (but even this is optional; Prince Charles routinely fastens them all for example).
Then, leave the suit buttoned until you take the jacket off – whether you’re sitting or standing. The military style behind the double-breasted suit requires that it remain fastened, otherwise the extra fabric at the front of the coat looks sloppy.
Above you can see Cary Grant in a suave-looking cream 6×2 double breasted – heading somewhere tropical, no doubt!
Its button configuration is known as a 6×2 because it has 6 buttons, only two of which can fasten. It is my opinion that this style of double-breasted jacket is most flattering for the greatest number of men. If you notice, the bottom-most button is undone. This improves suit drape and give a nice masculine figure to the jacket.
Other double-breasted jacket styles you might see include:
6 x 1 – Popularized in the late 80s and early 90s. This unfortunate style, worn by Patrick Bateman in American Psycho, now looks terribly dated and does not flatter many men. Please stay away.
4 x 1 and 4 x 2 – Often seen on the Duke of Windsor, this style of jacket has 4 buttons, of which either two or one fasten. The 4×1 was also quite popular in the 80s, but does not offend my sensibilities as much as the 6×1 . But be careful if you already have a belly, as the 4×1 has a tendency to magnify any weight around the midsection. The 4×2 is more versatile, as one may fasten either the top, bottom, or both buttons. The 4×2 appears far less often in ready-to-wear clothing than the 6×2 or 4×1.2 x 1 – Just say no, unless it’s a smoking jacket or shawl-lapelled tuxedo. This is an 80s revival look that should stay dead.
So whether you prefer one, two, three, or more buttons, you’re now armed with the proper knowledge to look your best in all situations!
Enjoy for now, fellow gentlemen. More Suit School to follow! Please message me on the Art of Manliness Community if you have specific questions or ideas for future Suit School topics!
Sunday, April 14, 2013
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)