Bluchers (Derbies) are more appropriate for wear with sports jackets (odd jackets). A gentleman with a high instep might find the open lacing of the Blucher to be more comfortable.
Within either style, more brogue (small holes through the leather) and additional layers of leather (like a wingtip) make the shoe less formal. This brings some contoversy to the popular use (or misuse) of wingtips with suits in the American business world.
Patent leather is reserved for dinner jackets (tuxedos).
As a general rule, men should follow these color combinations when deciding what shoes to wear with what pants. There are many other colors, but the tabe below is a simple guideline.
SHOES & PANTS COLOR GUIDE
Pant/Suit Color -->> Shoe
Color
Black------------>>> black
Gray------------->>> black, brown, oxblood
Navy------------>>> black, brown, oxblood
Brown----------->>> brown
All other factors being equal, black is considered more formal than brown.
OTHER RELATED ITEMS
The belt should be the same color as the shoes.
The socks should match the color of the pants.
Black------------>>> black
Gray------------->>> black, brown, oxblood
Navy------------>>> black, brown, oxblood
Brown----------->>> brown
All other factors being equal, black is considered more formal than brown.
OTHER RELATED ITEMS
The belt should be the same color as the shoes.
The socks should match the color of the pants.
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